Exmoor
National Park
- 600 miles of stunning countryside
We
caught the 8.50am ferry from Lymington and arrived late afternoon having covered
most of the trip at a leisurely pace on 'B' roads. The hotel (The Lorna Doone
in Polock) was a little tired as are so many, as the holiday industry is suffering
badly, but the owner Toni and her staff more than made up for that with their
almost 'home from home' service to guests. We had supper at the Hotel.
SATURDAY
Having
had a great breakfast we left the Hotel at 10.15am for a day exploring. We took
the toll road west out of Polock and straightaway were faced with some breathtaking
scenery, which in fact became the pattern of the 3 days of touring, as Exmoor
is a hidden secret. We headed towards Lynmouth and Lynton for petrol. The ride
was a mixture of winding and high roads with moor land, tree lined and coastal
views. The approach to Lynmouth was down Countisbury Hill which was a great scenic
ride with a gradient of 1 in 4 at the bottom, quite an introduction to Exmoor
and what was to be common place during our visit. We stopped in Lynmouth which
is in a coastal valley with 24% and 30% roads in and out. Lynton is on a hilltop
location, much of Exmoor is extremes of highs and lows with very steep winding
narrow roads. In fact the A39 which runs through Polock is barely wide enough
for 2 cars. Having fuelled up we decided to revisit Lynmouth later during our
visit.
We resumed our pre-planned route on the B3223 down to Simonsbath and
along to Exford all the time enjoying the beauty of the area. We then turned southwards
on to the A393 and then West on some side roads (er tracks). Lunch was at a pub
called The Ralegh's Cross Inn (Brendan Hill) which was a busy place, (always a
good sign). We left there and continued on towards Dulverton, again this was a
route off the main or B roads and came across the first of many Fords, this one
had a very old stone bridge with large stone slabs forming the road surface next
to it, close inspection of the Ford resulted in the bridge being used. From Dulverton
we continued with views to die for, until, by chance, we came to another Ford
which was impossible to cross by motorcycle. This turned out to be an historical
area, where the Ford can be crossed by foot on the construction called Tarr Steps!
Tarr Steps (Nr. Liscombe) is an example of a 'clapper' bridge (the term being
derived from the Latin 'claperius', meaning 'pile of stones') and is constructed
entirely from large stone slabs and boulders. Tarr Steps Woodland NNR is owned
and managed by the Exmoor National Park Authority (ENPA). The bridge is listed
as a scheduled monument but, although it was once thought to be prehistoric, it
is now widely believed to be of mediaeval origin. The name 'Tarr' is thought to
be derived from the Celtic word 'tochar', meaning 'causeway'. The reserve primarily
consists of oak woodland growing on acid free-draining soils, but pockets of richer
soil support ash, hazel and sycamore, while drier areas have been colonized by
beech. The woodland is important for its moss, liverwort and lichen populations.
In the spring visitors to the woods can see extensive carpets of bluebell. The
reserve has a small population of dormice and the River Barle, which runs through
the site, is home to otters. In the past much of the woodland was coppiced to
provide charcoal for the local iron smelting industry.
December 2012
One
of the region's oldest bridges - Exmoor's Tarr Steps - has been swept away by
a raging, swollen river as what is likely to be the wettest year on record comes
to a soggy end. The iconic 1,000-year-old clapper bridge is the latest landmark
to be hit by the aftermath of weeks of relentless downpours. Other areas all around
the West Country are still threatened by landslips, saturated ground and the continued
risk of flooding. The damage to Tarr Steps - a well-known beauty spot on the fast-flowing
river Barle - comes as sections of the cliffs along the Jurassic Coast began sliding
towards the waves at the weekend, threatening luxury beach chalets and creating
a risk for beach-goers and fossil hunters who were warned to stay away from the
cliffs.
More than three quarters of the 50-metre long, ancient clapper bridge,
which crosses the Barle between Withypool and Dulverton, has been washed away
in the rain-swollen river which has reached depths 10 feet deeper than normal
levels. So strong was the force of water washing down the deep Exmoor valley that
the twin steel hawsers designed to protect the bridge were snapped by massive
trees being swept downstream in the flood. The hawsers were strung across the
river exactly 60 years ago after an extreme flood damaged the bridge - and the
cable debris-trap has stood the test of time ever since, despite bad weather in
the past. "They say the bridge only gets damaged in a year that ends in the
number two," commented a barman at neighbouring Tarr Farm Inn. "It was
damaged in 1982 and before that in 1952 - and apparently in the past they've brought
the Army in to help retrieve the stones and put them back again."
All
the massive slabs incorporated into the 17-span bridge have been numbered so that
they can be retrieved and put back in exactly the right place.
A spokesman
for the Exmoor National Park Authority said: "The stones forming the spans
weigh between one and two tons each and have on occasions been washed up to 50
yards downstream. A distinctive feature of Tarr Steps is the slabs that are raked
against the ends of each pier to break the force of the river and divert floating
debris.
"Despite this, much of the damage has been due to debris such
as branches floating down with the flood and battering the bridge."
May
2013 - Fortunately during our visit the stepped bridge had been rebuilt thanks
to the foresight in numbering the stones and slabs. We spent 20 minutes enjoying
the area and taking many pictures. We then retraced our route and continued, we
did get lost, but who cares, it's such a beautiful area whichever way you go.
Eventually we got back on route and returned to Polock and the Hotel arriving
about 5.30pm, all done in and ready for a cuppa. And so ended our first great
day. We had supper at a Café/Takeaway next to the Hotel.
SUNDAY
We
set off at 10.15am in marvellous and welcome sunshine heading west out of Polock
and bravely, (well I thought so), rode up Polock Hill which has a gradient of
1 in 4!! It wasn't as scary as we had imagined it would be and it led us through
beautiful scenery, so was well worth the climb. We then headed south over the
moors riding towards Exford, once again the scenery was breathtaking, the sun
still shone and the conditions couldn't have been better. We then travelled down
to Tiverton, making good progress on the smooth fast B3222 and A396, stopping
for a welcome coffee in The Exeter Inn, near Bampton in the Exe Valley. After
this welcome break, sitting outside in the sunshine we turned northwest on the
A361, again making good progress (this was a long ride we were undertaking), turning
off onto the A399 heading up to Coombe Martin on the coast. Paul, Steve, Tim,
Lyn and I had a wonderful carvery in the Pack o' Cards, a huge pub which was very
busy, whilst Michel and Jan decided to find a restaurant nearby. As they finished
their meal before us they explored further round the coast to Ifracombe, we met
up again as they came back to Coombe Martin and they suggested we all travelled
back to Ifracombe with them, which we did, taking lots of pictures in the picturesque
harbour. Afterwards we rode on towards Woolacombe on the west coast, returning
on the B3343, the A3123, turning off onto the B3358 towards Simonsbath. This road
is renowned for being a 'Bikers Road', which didn't disappoint, and we followed
it until Exford, this is one road not to be missed in this part of the country.
It had been a long day and we then headed north on small winding tracks through
picturesque villages up to Polock. Michel and Jan decided to call it a day and
returned to the hotel but the rest of us decided to continue through the village
and turn off to try and find Dunkery Beacon up a very winding, sometimes taxing,
track that lead us up and up to the viewpoints on the top. It was a very worthwhile
ride, a real 'up and downer' which rewarded us with some amazing views as it rises
to 1704ft, the sun was still out and everywhere looked beautiful. We then rode
back the way the way we came and returned to the hotel, tired and well and truly
'saddle sore' and ready to put our feet up for a while before having supper at
the hotel. A very good day.
MONDAY
Once
again we finished breakfast at 10am and set off at 10.15am for the day's ride.
It was a glorious sunny day again, how lucky we have been so far! We rode up Polock
Hill again, experts now of course with the 1 in 4 gradient, and on towards our
eagerly awaited trip to Lynmouth, just along the coast. This was the day we had
planned to ride up the water powered cliff railway that leads out onto Lynton
at the top. The ride heading into this beautiful, picturesque town is amazing,
one that never fails to delight. We parked up and waited for the railway to descend
and entered the carriage and off we set upwards. Wow, what an experience, the
views of the town and Bay that opened up the higher we got were truly memorable,
we wouldn't have missed it for the world. We had a coffee in the café at
the top and a two minutes walk away was the tiny town of Lynton with lots of great
small shops. Heading back down again on the railway was as thrilling as the trip
up, wonderful! We headed off to find the Valley of the Rocks nearby, which we
did eventually, after a couple of diversions! We continued on the coastal road
with, once again, beautiful coastal views, making a very enjoyable ride, the tracks
just kept opening and heading upwards as we rode through glorious countryside
leading down eventually into a village called Berryhabour. We spotted nearby a
really old looking pub called Ye Olde Globe. Talking to the landlady we discovered
it was built in the 13th century, as one of three cottages which were combined
in the 17th century and made into a public house, it had so much character and
must be one of the oldest pubs in the area. After having a drink and eating some
very welcome sandwiches we rode off to find a scenic road that Paul had planned
for our first day that we hadn't done, the landlady of Ye Olde Globe said if we
could it would be well worth it. We rejoined the A39 where we found The Lynton
and Barnstable Railway at the Woody Bay Station, between Lynton and Blackmoor
Gate.
Woody Bay Station, within the Exmoor National Park, is a station on the
former Lynton and Barnstaple Railway, a narrow gauge line that ran through Exmoor
from Barnstaple to Lynton and Lynmouth in North Devon. The station was situated
inland, about 2 km from Woody Bay itself. It opened with the line (as Wooda Bay
until the name was changed in 1901) on 7 March 1898, and closed with it after
service on 29 September 1935. From 1923 until closure, the line was operated by
the Southern Railway.
Woody Bay station was built in part to serve the expected
development of a resort at Woody Bay, a mile or so to the north. A pier was built
in the bay, although little further development took place, and the pier was destroyed
by heavy seas before any trade could be established with passing steamers, and
the development was abandoned when the promotor went into liquidation in 1900,
and although a route was surveyed for a branch line to the bay, it was never constructed.
Following
purchase by the Lynton and Barnstaple Railway Company in 1995, restoration of
the station began, and it opened as a Visitors' Centre in 2003. An "out and
back" service over a few hundred yards of track began in 2004, and with the
opening of a temporary station about a mile towards Parracombe Halt, a regular
"point to point" service started in 2006.
More than 75 years after
the railways closure you can once more board a train at England's highest narrow
gauge railway station - the delightfully named Woody Bay Station - 1000 feet up
on wild Exmoor. Run almost entirely by volunteers, we are a "non-profit"
organisation owned by its Members with the mission to fully restore as much as
we can of the legendary Lynton & Barnstaple Railway.
We enjoyed a 25 minute
trip on the train. Leaving the station we continued on our route to a small track,
riding through Brendon, Malmsmead, Lorna Doone, Oare, then Oareford, (this was
also recommended by Toni at the Hotel as it is unmarked on any map), rejoining
the A39, taking the next left down the Toll Road (again, breathtaking), down to
Polock and onwards for a quick visit to Polock Weir, a picturesque little place.
We returned to the hotel at 5.40pm and later had a lovely supper in their dining
room. An excellent varied day, the sun shone all day, the scenery was again magnificent,
all in all a very enjoyable day.
4
bikes with 7 friends (Paul & Angie, Steve, Michel & Jan and Tim &
Lynne) visit Exmoor on the north coast of Devon leaving on Friday 3rd May and
returning on Tuesday 7th May and would you believe once again a Club 4181 trip
with almost unbroken sunshine, which considering the UK weather, 5 days of sunshine
in a row, how luckly.
TUESDAY
Sadly
this was the day we returned home, we had our last breakfast and said our goodbyes
to Toni and the staff and left at about 10.30. Unfortunately we (I) got lost leaving
Polock and it was a while before we were back on track. We stopped at Compton
Abbus Airport on the return trip, catching the 4.45pm ferry. A really great few
days, and a place to return to.
Write-up and photos Angie